• Apply petroleum jelly or heavy moisturizer every 2 or 3 days to the combs and wattles of your birds to protect them from frostbite.
• Ensure that their water supply is not frozen! Chickens will surely die if they have no water for long periods of time.
• To prevent the water from freezing, bring it inside the house overnight and return it to the coop first thing in the morning.
• Check at least twice daily to see that your chicken’s water supply has not frozen.
• Make sure they have access to the roost where they can huddle with the others
• Keep the wind and rain out (See how to build a chicken coop.)
• You can use just a regular light bulb to give them some heat.
• In extreme cold you can use a heat lamp like the one that is used when they are chicks for keeping them warm.  Be sure to avoid fire danger by keeping it far enough away from the bedding and other parts of the coop

Mites

Mites are a common problem especially when raising and keeping poultry. There are several kinds of mites that can and will infest your birds not just one variety.

Mites can be brought in by wild birds, such as starlings, sparrows, crows, swallows, or can be picked up at poultry shows, sales, just about anyplace where there is contact with other avian life. They can also be carried in by rodents who enter the coops in search of food. In order to prevent illness and the destruction of your flock, early intervention is absolutely necessary.

Chicken Mites are the most common as they live on the skin of the birds, in the nest boxes, and in the bedding. They are nocturnal parasites and suck blood from the chicken while it sleeps. They are very small in size and yellowish gray in color but turn dark as they feed. Keeping the coop clean is the best way to effectively combat chicken mites instead of treating the birds.

Northern Fowl Mites live on the bird itself and feeds around the clock. They are very small, reddish brown in color and often cause discoloration of chicken feathers due to their eggs and waste. Controlling the Northern Fowl Mite requires that the bird be treated directly instead of just the surroundings.

Infestation of these mites results in weakening, loss of appetite, emaciation, lowered egg production, lethargy, and sometimes death.

Scaley Leg Mites manifest themselves on the scales of the legs and feet. You will notice a lifting of the scales and separation from the skin of the leg underneath. Chicken legs and feet may become swollen, tender and have a discharge under the scales.

Poultry Lice

Another big problem of poultry is the many different forms of lice. Regardless of locality and geographic location there will be variations of lice that are dominant in the area. Lice are small wingless insects, with chewing mouth parts. Unlike mites, lice do not suck blood but rather feed on dry skin scales and feathers. They cause irritation to the host bird with their movement and chewing action. Poultry lice infection generally results in weak birds, lower egg production levels and makes the birds more susceptible to illnesses.

Treatment

There are many off the shelf products that can be used for treatment of mites and poultry lice infectivity.

Sevin powder is proven to be very effective against both parasites and can be used on the coops and directly on the birds themselves. Retreatment is recommended in order to neutralize the eggs that will hatch and reinfest the chickens and their coops.

Orange Guard is a non-toxic and very effective organic treatment for chicken coops but can not be directly used on the chickens.

Eprinex is an example of a pour-on medication that can address both infestations.

Scaley leg mites can best be treated with direct contact. Apply petrolatum jelly, vegetable, mineral, or linseed oil on chicken legs every two days till until the scales are smooth again.

A broody hen isn’t laying eggs.  It may not be a concern of your.  If you are going for maximum egg production or if you only have 2-3 chickens, it will just cut down your production of eggs.

You should be aware that a broody hen gets grumpy when you try to collect the eggs from underneath her; you have to beware as she might even peck you! Another factor to consider is that since the eggs are not fertilized if you allow the hen to sit on them, the eggs will decompose at a faster rate.

You have to break your hen of this habit by collecting the eggs on a daily basis.  The main thing is that a broody hen’s body temperature increases so that she can transmit that to the eggs.  One way of breaking the cycle is to cool down the hen.  You can do something like put them in a cage with a wire floor for maximum circulation.

You can employ several tactics to break hens of the broodiness habit. The most common technique is to repeatedly remove the errant chicken from the nest and carry her around for 15 minutes or more, two times daily for two or three days.

For hardcore birds, you can place ice cubes or ice pack in the nest. However there may be instances when really extreme measures may be necessary like putting your hen in solitary confinement with of course ensuring that the hen has adequate supply of food and water.

Before you get to that point you can also just keep kicking her off the hen.  You can also try just putting a few golf balls on the nest.

Like children and adults, chickens also need treats that will motivate them to live healthy and happy. But! Unlike children and adults, the treats for chickens are different and are more nutritious. Compared to human treats that mostly comprises of chocolates, candies, and other sweets, chicken treats are more on veggies and fruits.

Yogurt is a classic favorite of them birds. They are tasty and are very good to the intestines. This is also a good source of calcium that can contribute greatly to the structure and health of the eggshell. But the most favorite and is very popular among every living chicken is the worm! They will eat it so fast and not a single evidence of it will linger.

Chickens, even with puny brains, have in it the command to like or dislike a certain treat. Below are some of the things that in general, chickens will come running for. If the first one didn’t work, scratch it off then proceed to the next. Bon appetite!

Apple. May come in raw type or in applesauce. The seeds contain a small amount of cyanide but it’s so small that it can’t affect the chicken’s health.

Banana. One of the good treats. This is also high in potassium thus; it is good for muscle activities.

Live Crickets. You can choose to hunt it or otherwise buy it in a pet or bait store. This is also a nice treat to give them. You can watch them run around chasing the critters plus it is a good source of protein.

Mature Cucumbers. Give the mature ones because they love it when the seeds and flesh is soft enough to peck on.

Fruits. There are exceptions. But the best fruit treats are peaches, pears, cherries, etc. Some say that it is not wise to give fruits to egg laying hens but some would beg to differ.

Leftovers. When we  say “leftovers”, it must be something that came from a human’s plate minutes after mealtime is over. It must be edible. Anything that came out of your fridge that is considered as moldy or spoiled is not advisable. Don’t give anything salty. 

As a rule of thumb, for a chicken coop to be satisfactory for your birds, it must meet the following requirements:

• It must be predator-proof from all sides. Make sure that all openings are protected with the correct size of wire mesh – 15mm square so that so that predators can not reach inside the coop!
• Make sure that the area surrounding the coop is protected with wire-mesh fencing with the base buried at least 30cm below ground level to prevent foxes and rats from burrowing into the area. Rats would especially be drawn into the area because of chicken droppings.
• Make sure the coop is well ventilated (but not directly in the flow of air) to prevent respiratory diseases. Although chickens can stand cold weather they can not withstand being in the direct path of the wind.
• Make sure the coop is easy to clean.
• You should provide roosting poles for your birds because that is where they sleep! Make sure that there is adequate spacing so they don’t crowd out one another.
• Put 1 nest box for every 4 or 5 birds in a dark corner of the coop to encourage your chickens to lay eggs. Nest boxes should be a little bit off the floor but lower than the roosting pole inside.
• Make sure the coop is roomy enough for the birds to roam around when they are inside, at least 4 square feet per bird.
• There should be a waterer and feeder inside the chicken coop.
• For easy disposal of droppings, place a removable plastic tray under the roosting poles.

For  more information on chicken coop plans.

Buying chicken feed is pretty straightforward. Feed suppliers manufacture special baby chicks feed complete with everything they need. If you have had your baby chicks vaccinated against Coccidiosis, they you have to give them un-medicated feed. If not, or if they have only been vaccinated for Marek’s Disease, medicated feed is the surest way to keep them healthy during the first few months.

Depending on the formulation of the feeds, baby chicks can be on starter feed for about 4 weeks before moving on to a combination of starter/grower for the next 16 weeks. Read the manufacturer’s recommendations on the feed bag to be on the safe side.

You can also give your baby chicks food scraps, worms, bugs including small amounts of vegetable and dairy. Do this only as a treat and not on a regular basis. They need all the nutrients they can get from the starter feed and giving them treats can jeopardize their health and nutritional balance.

Grit

Since chickens don’t have teeth they need something else to help them grind the food they eat for easier digestion. They need tiny pebbles which they store in their crop to grind their food. You need to give your baby chicks sand, parakeet or canary gravel which is available from your local pet store. You can either provide this in a different bowl or mix it with their feed.

Before you begin building your backyard chicken coop, the very first thing to do is survey the area where you plan to put the chicken coop. Decide whether what you plan to build will be portable (movable), semi-permanent or fixed.

Regardless of the type of backyard chicken coop you will build for your chickens, you have to make sure that you provide them with the best available comfort, cleanliness and security since this is where your flock will sleep and lay their eggs.

This is where your chickens will eat and sleep. Your coop will also need to keep them safe from potential predators. It is possible to buy a pre-made chicken coop and that is a good option for you if you have the money and don’t have the time to build one on your own.

Chicken Coop Nesting Box Drawer

You also want to make it the easiest for YOU!  You have to consider how you will feed them and provide water in the easiest way and also pick up their eggs without much trouble.  The other major things you will be doing is cleaning the coop.  Depending on where you live and the closeness of quarters you may have to do it every week.  That will be a pain if it isn’t planned out carefully.

Pre-Planning and Site Selection Basics

1. 1. Choose the Right Plan and Design: Based on the family discussion as to how many chickens you plan to have, you already have an idea as to how big the chicken coop should be and what type you would build.
2. 2. Other Factors to Consider: When you have decided on the right plan and design, you also have to consider the following factors in order to make the building phase a lot easier for you.
   1. a. Allocate 4 heads of chicken per feeder and waterer.
   2. b. Build the nest boxes at the same time you build the chicken coop to save time.
3. 3. Position the Coop Strategically In choosing the right place for semi-permanent or fixed chicken coop, make sure that the area will have the right amount of sunlight and is not directly in the direction of the wind with predator threats kept to a minimum.

You want to also consider how you will get the eggs out easily.  Some people put drawers or other doors that open easily into the nesting boxes where they can just take out the eggs. You can also set up a way to easily clean your coop and have a pull out tray under the coop that collects the droppings for the most part like this coop on the Seattle City Chickens Tour does.

See also:  Chicken Coop Plans

Coyote

Coyotes are normally found in North America from Alaska to Mexico and as far as Panama and has adapted to the environmental changes brought about urbanization and human occupation in the rural areas.

They are most active at night but in places where their natural habitat is still undisturbed by human settlements and activities, they are also active during the day especially during cool weather. There are coyotes however that have already adapted to the presence of humans and they tend to be active even during day time.

Coyotes belong to the dog family, are medium sized and weigh between 22 to 25 pounds. They have large erect ears, slender muzzle and bushy tail with the male of the breed noticeably larger than the female. They are either brownish-tan with streaks of gray or darker with less brown. They have a distinctive voice which consists of howls, high-pitched yaps, and intermittent dog-like barks.

They prey on domestic fowl like chickens, ducks, geese and turkeys. Simply shooting these predators won’t stop them, you either have to trap them or better yet, make sure that the area surrounding your chicken coop is coyote-proof.

Fisher Cat

A member of the weasel family, the fisher cat is also known as the pekan cat or black cat. Fishers live in a band in the forest are only in the North American continent.

Adult males weigh from 7 to 12 pounds and may reach up to 40 inches long including their tail which can be from 12 to 15 inches long. Adult females are smaller, approximately weighs from 4 to 5.5 pounds. Male fisher cats look grizzled because of the tri-colored hairs along their neck and shoulders areas.

They have short legs, small ears, and a long well-furred tail. The color of their coat ranges from dark brown to nearly black. They have large feet with five sharp toes which they use for climbing trees and killing their prey.

They usually prey on medium sized mammals and poultry. The only way to combat a fisher cat attach is to make sure that your birds are safe in their coops at night.

Fox

Foxes are quick and highly skilled hunters, preying on mice, cottontail rabbits and poultry birds. Although primarily nocturnal, they are active and sometimes come out to hunt also during daylight hours.

The fox resembles a bushy-tailed, medium sized dog with their long tail as the most noticeable and identifying feature. They normally weight between 10 to 15 pounds and are 39 to 41 inches in length.

Foxes are the nemesis of chicken owners. They normally hunt 2 hours after sundown and 2 hours before sunup and carry off their prey a good distance away. They are notorious for raiding poultry farms especially during spring because they need to provide food for their growing litters.

Hawk

Hawks are carnivores with strong, hooked beaks; their feet have three toes pointed forward and one turned back; and their claws are long, curved and very sharp with an eyesight that is several times better than humans. They can see a mouse from a height of as high as one mile.

Adult hawks have dark brown colored feathers on the back and the top of their wings and usually weigh anywhere from 2 and 4 pounds with a wingspan that can reach as wide as 56 inches.

Hawks usually kill their preys with their claws and tear them to bite-size pieces with their strong and sharp beak.

Raccoon

One of the most common predators of poultry farms is the raccoon. They are can live close to humans and are very adaptable and intelligent

A grown raccoon is about 32 inches long (including the tail) and weighs between 11 to 18 pounds although some weigh as much as 30 pounds; generally male raccoons are larger than the females of the species. The most distinctive features of the raccoon are the black-ringed tail and coloration of the face which bears a resemblance to a bandit’s mask.

Raccoons attack their prey by biting the head or upper neck area. They are known to mutilate chickens by pulling heads or legs off. They are also known to prey on wild birds and water fowls.

Skunk

Skunks pose little or no threat to adult chickens, but they usually prey on the chicks and eggs. There are four types of skunks you should be on the look out for – the hooded skunk, the striped skunk, the spotted skunk, and the hog-nosed skunk with the spotted skunk acknowledged as more dangerous since they know how to climb. Skunks are nocturnal in nature but they stay away from farms that have geese, dogs or cats.

Adult skunks are about 24 inches long (including a 7 to 10 inch tail) and weigh anywhere from 3 to 12 pounds, depending on age, sex, physical condition and time of year. On the average, male skunks are larger and heavier than the female.

Skunks occasionally kill poultry and eat eggs but they do not climb fences to get at their prey.

Egg producing chickens are generally light-weight and hens have a balanced temperament.

Egg Producing Chicken Breeds